Shoemaking



Feb. 29, 1944. A. R. RIDDERSTROM. 2,343,226

SHOEMAKING Filed Nov. 19, 1941 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 A. R. RIDDERSTROMSHOEMAKING Feb. 29, 1944.

3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed Nov. 19, '1941 Izweafo 1944. A. R. RIDDESTROM,343,226

' SHOEMAKING I I Filed Nov. 19, 1941 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 Patented Feb. 29,I944v SHOEMAKINQ 1 Andrew R. Bidderstrom, Nahant, Mara, assignor toPrime Manufacturing Company, ynn, Mass., a corporation of Massachusetts1 Application November 19, 1941, Serial No. 419,744

14 Claims. ((31. 12-146) This invention relates to ribbed insoles of thetype used in making welt or Littleway shoes and consists in an improvedprocess of making such insoles characterized, inone aspect, by the stepv of bringing to the insole blank, for attachment thereto, apre-assemble'd composite ribbed strip comprising a core and cohesivetape ready for immediate application to the insole.

The invention includes within its scope the improved insole producedinaccordance with the process of my invention and also the novelpreformed composite ribbed strip used in carrying out the process of myinvention.

Heretcfore, cohesive or adhesive tape and core material have been ledseparately to the insole blank. progressively conformed to each other,and simultaneously applied to the insole. This has always been a veryexacting operation requiring skill and perfectly adjusted machinery byno means easy to attain continuously in the varying conditions ofcommercial shoemaking. Where it is the practice to conform the tape tothe core and simultaneously apply or attach these parts to the insole,it ofen happens that the margin of the tape varies from place to placealong the'rib and that intervals of scant margin occur resulting in weakspots in the rib. Oneobject of the present invention is to improve theaccuracy of the' rib construction andsecure a rib uniform in appearanceand in strength throughout its vention is that it is thereby entirelypractical to use a heavy tape on the inside of the rib where it isrequired to resist the strain'of the inseam stitches, and a light tapeon the outside of the rib where it is subjected to. no further strainthan merely that of holding 'the rib 'down in A place on the insoleduring the lasting operation.

length by accurately pre assembling and combining the core and tapewhere this step can be carried out under more favorable and moreaccurate conditions than at the time of applying the rib to the insole.Since the .core is uniform in cross section'and stifl in texture, it maybe handled accurately at high speed and combined and united with one ormore strips of tape all under favorableand advantageous conditions.

Preferably and as herein shown two narrow tapes are employed, onepositioned on each side face of the rectangular core and secured theretoby a single linejof stitching. This results in a valuable savingoimaterial since it is unnecessary to carry the tape over the top edge ofthe core. The top of the rib is trimmed in shoemaking after the lastingand weltsewing operations in accordance with the thickness of the welt.Where a thin weltis employed a substantial portion of the rib istrimmedawiw, and, by leaving the top edge or portion of the coreuncovered by tape, as is done in carrying out my invention, a strip 01material at least wide is saved which is otherwise only waste.

of the process of my Still another feature of my invention consist: inproviding additional securing means for the tape. forming the flange ofthe rib in the sham of sliced or stab stitches carrying a line of threadthrough the flange of the tape and obliquely into the body of the insolein the form of loop: which are anchored or sealed in place by adhesiviand pressure. This additional securing means for the rib obviates thenecessity of employing the gem duck reinforcing blank which has beenfound necessary heretoforein the manufacture of Economy Insoles andprovides the same strength of rib by using only narrow tape along therib itself.

In another aspect my invention relates to the reinforcement of a sewingrib formed primarily by channeling an insole to produce adjacentmarginal lips which are turned up and cemented together in uprightposition. Hitherto large blanks or blocks of gem duck have been placedon soles so channeled; the gem duck has been cemented to the sole and tothe inside of the rib and later trimmed off flush with the top of therib. The gem duck reinforces the rib and the insole. I have discoveredthat a satisfactory reinforced insole may be produced by laying arelatively narrow band or tape of gem duck on the channeled-sole tocover the inside of the rib and the adjacent marginal portion lyingwithin the rib. Subsequently the tape is stitched to the sole by thesliced stitches referred to above. The product is fully as strong as asole provided with the relatively large blank of gem duck and is muchcheaper than-an insole having width reinforcing blank because of thesaving in material. My invention as carried out in the reinforcing ofchanneled insoles is not claimed herein but is the subject-matter of myco-pending divisional implication Ser. No. 497,666, filed August 6,194.3.

I have also solved the troublesome problem of eliminating the largefolds or bunches, in the tape at the toe portion, which not only resultin an insole of poor appearance but also interfere with accurate sewingof the upper to the sewing rib. To eliminate the'objectionable bunchingof the tape, I provide an awl or other'sharp tool which is arranged tolab the tape repeatedly in aninclinedoraloblns pathandatshortintervalssimultaneously with the layin of the tape. The jabs of the awl formsmall neat pleats in the tape as it pro around the toe portion of theinsole. It is furthermore desirable to provide a hammer which followsthe awl and is arranged to hammer the pleats down fiat. In other wordsthe excess material, resulting from the bending of the tape around thecurve oi the toe, is distributcd in many small pleats of small bulkinstead of being allowed to gather in a few bulky folds. 4

These and other objects and features of the invention will best be andappreciatunderstood ed from the following-detailed description of apreferred embodiment thereof selected for purposes of illustration andshown in the accomp y s drawings in which- Figs. 1-3 are views in crosslarged scale, through a core and of tap Fig. 3a is a fragmentary view ofa coil of ribbing as supplied by the manufacturer,

Fig. 4 is a view in perspective of an insole embodyi s the sewing rib ofmy invention,

Figs. 5-9 are views in side elevation showing the movements at amechanism for securing the section on an enassociated strips flange ofthe sewing rib to an insole by stabplan view of the mechanism shown onan enlarged scale through the toe portion of of insole. Making the ribAt the outset it should be stated that an important aspect of myinvention consists in assembling ribbing in strip form and coiling it inreels which may be supplied to shoe manufacturers, a practice incontrast with systems heretofore in use wherein the ribbing has beenformed by the same machine which simultaneously applied it to theinsole. A relatively stifl core strip Ill made of cardboard or similartough fibrous material forms the inner element of the sewing rib of myinvention. To the opposite sides of the core III, which is shown in Fig.1 as substantially rectangular in cross section, is stitched a pair oftapes I! and I4. one of which is preferably, but not necessarily,somewhat thicker and a modified form heavier than the other. The line ofstitching i6 secures the upper margins. of the tapes to the coreslightly below the center of the latter. The

upper half of the core II is accordingly uncovered, the lower portionsof the tapes I! and I4 extending considerably below the lower edge ofthe core II, as shown in 1. The inner faces" of the tapes I! and I4 arecoated with cohesive cement II, that is, cement whichwill stick' toother cemented surfaces but not to unprepared The tape I2 is then turnedor folded upwardly andfiatagalnsttheside-ofthecore Lawincthcribthecoiledribbingistobeuseditisfed hamachlnewhichflrstdirectsthecorcFig.2,alsoturningthetapes and o opposed base fianges perpendicu-Il,andthenlaystheribalongthe insole II, which has previously a withcohesive cement. The cement e ingand the-cement on the insole. a bondpermanently securing the ofthetapestotheinsolewith I. held between themin.upright position. It will be evident that the cement holds theflanges of the tapes to the insole 20, but since no cement is applied tothe core Ill, it is the stitching II which holds the core ll through themediumofthetapesecurclytotheinsoleandin upright position. After an upperhas been lasted to the insole by lasting tacks, staples, or other means,the upper is sewn to the rib, using the conventional curved needle whichforms a seam running along the base of the rib beneath the line of thestitching l6. Subsequently the overlastcd edge of the upper and theupper portion of the rib are trimmed oil. U

It is to be understood that instead of using two separate tapes. asingle tape may be used which carries over the top of the core Ill andextends down on either side of it. However, this is usually a morewasteful process than the preferred process heretofore described in viewof the fact that most of the portion of the single tape which extendsabove the line of stitching is always trimmed oi! later on in the shprocess. Furthermore, when two tapes are used in manufacturing theribbing. theupper portion of the core ll may be received between guidemembers' which register the core with respect to thetwopiecesoftapeandthusensurethatthetapes willbe stitched to thecoreprecisely along a pre-' determined line. Such precision isimpossible when a single piece of folded'tape is used and experience hasshown that it is very difiicult to lay a single piece of tape about acore at high speed and with such accuracy that the width of the base isheld to a uniform dimension. There is also the additional advantage whenseparate tapes are used of being able to employ a tape of greaterthickness onthe inside of the rib where greater strength is required bythe shoe- Stitchingtberibtothesole blank, press the gem duck upon thesole in the line II II area lying within the rib, conform the gem duckto theinside of therib, and then trim oil! the excess or gem duckproiectlng 'abovethe therlh-Thegemduckreini'orcesthesole uprightposition to the insole blank, as.

and provides a firm anchorage for the seam join-' ing the upper and thesewing rib, since the upturned edge portion ofthegem duck forms an otherply of such a rib. I have discovered that the application of gem duck inthis fashion can a be eliminated entirely .without impairing the 1quality of the product. I accomplish this result either in conjunctionwith the useof the sewing rib heretofore described or in conjunctionwith an insole in which a sewing rib has been channeled. iii

In the first instance'the inside tape II is made of heavy duck and thesewing rib is applied to an insole as previously discussed. However, in.

accordance with my invention, the inside tape it.

may be secured to the insole not' only by the com hesive cementdescribed above, butby a process of loop stitching carried onprogressively and simultaneously with the application of the sewing ribto a fiat sole blank, and

which will now be described in detail.

. 2 An awl is used to make a slanting cut or stab' through the tape I4and into but not through the material of the body of the insole.Subsequently a forked needle inserts and deposits a loop of thread inthe hole formed by the awl, and finally pressure is applied from abovetending to close or collapse-the sides of the hole about the insertedloop of thread. Preferably the thread is impregnated with an adhesivewhich sets very quickly under the application of pressure andcontributes to form a secure anchorage for the stitch. Since thestitches are not carried through the sole, the

. opposite surface of the sole which is exposed inside the shoe willbe'smooth and unbroken.

To carry out the process of securing th inside as tape to the sole bylooped'stitching, I prefer to use the mechanism shown in Figs. 5-12.This may include an aw] 30 carried at the end of an arm 36 and set at anacute angle with relation to the surface of an insole 32 as it is fedinto the machine. At the bottom of the arm 36 is a feed foot 34 having ahorizontal bottom provided with corrugations or teeth. The motion of theawl l0 and the feed foot 3| is indicated by the diagram in Fig. 13 andis obtained by the use of eccentric mechanism of the general typedisclosed in my prior Patent No. 1,794,204. In the-indicated path thedistance A--B is the withdrawal stroke. At B the awl meets the surfaceof the tape on the sole and the inclined and curved path B-c rep: to

resents a period during which the awl 30 is pressed with increasingforce downwardly upon the surface of the tape it, with very littleforward movement. Thedistance O-D represents the movement of the awlthrough the tape I4 and into the insole 32. Since the point of the awlprojects considerably below the corrugated surface of the feed foot 34,the feed foot does. not come into contact with the tape it until thepoint D is reached. From D to 1A the awl and the feed foot which is thenin contact with the tape H, are moved to the left. Since the feed-footis in contact with the tape, the awl is not moved with respect to thesole during its travel along the path D-A and the result is that thesole 321s fed to 55 the left. At the point A the withdrawal begins andthe cycle is repeated.

' Behind the awl "is located a curved needle carried in the end of ashort arm 38. As clearly shown in Figs. 11 and 12 the front side of the7 needle is grooved to' provide a thread-carrying slot", and the pointof the needle is recessed or forked as shown at 44. The rear side ofthe. needle has a short groove or slot 48 extending upwardly a shortdistance from the point. A supabove the needle ll.

mer ll which bears on the surface of the work" to hold it firm while theawl and theneedle enter the material. Integral with thehammer 48 is athin leaf extension II which presses the tape it; tightly down on thesurface of the insole at the edge corner formed by the core II and theinsole.

A presser foot I! is arranged between the hammer and the needle and isprovided with a pointed lower end.

In Fi 6 the instrumentalities above described are shown in theirrelative positions after a stitch has been formed and the awl II isabout toenter the material at an acute angle to form an oblique pocketfor the reception of the next stitch.- In Fig. 6 the hammer 48, theneedle II and the presser foot If are elevated; the awl has made itshole 0 and its at thepoin't represented by D in'the diagram of Fig. 13.The feed foot i4 is now in contact with the surface of the tape it andthe sole is about to be. fed to the left.

In Fig. 7 the feed foot 34 is shown as having fed the sole to the leftand the hammer has begun to come down again. The awl is now ready toleave the material. Before the awl leaves the material entirely andbefore the hammer .comes in contact with the material, thednsole 32 canbe swung around the awl, since that is all which then holds the insole.This allows the operator to swing around a sharp bend, as at the toe endof the insole, without moving the hole formed by the awl from its properposition. In Fig. 8 the hammer is shown as having come in contact withthe work to hold it firm, the awl is lifted away and the needle carryingthe thread is about to enter the hole made by the awl. In Fig; 9 theneedle is shownas having reached the bottom of the hole made by the awland the presserfoot 52 has come down to bear upon the surface of thetape and press the upper side wall of the hole against the thread whichhas then been looped over the point of the needle and into the slot 48.The result is that when the needle is withdrawn, the presser'foot willretain the thread in the awl hole, and after the needle has beenwithdrawn the pressure of the presser foot will set the adhesive carriedby the I thread and also close the walls 'of the hole about thedeposited 'loop of thread.

The cycle then begins again, and when the hammer It returns to the work,it will flatten out the stitch lust formed.

When a suitable quick setting adhesive is used on the thread 54 and thepresser foot I! and ll have done their work, it will be found that thestitches cannot be pulled out. In fact they are so securely held inplace that the material of the insole will tear before the stitches willyield.

The application of the process of my invention to a channeled insole isillustrated in Fig. 14. A leather insole I has formed in its lowermargin a rib obtained by channeling in from the edge of the sole toraise a lip '62 and channeling from the inside of the sole II to form alip it. The lips 62 and M are raised to Vertical position and cementedtogether. A tape 66-is then laid on the sole so that one portion isupright and in contact with the inside of the lip 64 and the remainderof the tape 66 extends along the por- 7; With the-mechanism describedabove the loop stitchinagll is formed 'theinscletl. throughthe'tape and-oftheinsoleil,since the necessaryto use Y gemiduck, heretofore requiredand it is noteto secure the tape n I stitching thickness adjacent therib may not be great permit stitching of adequate depth. 'I have-foundthat by stitchingva tape to an insole-in the manner-above describedeither in of the one \mchanneled portion"- coniunction with a preparedsewing rib or with a channeled rib, the resulting insole is strongenough towithstand all the stresses encountered in shoemaking. The tapeis sosecurely held to the insole thata flrrn anchorage is formed forwhich later unite the sewing rib andthe upper. Accordingly, it becomesunthelarge blocks or blanks of worthy that the amount of gear duckconsumed informing thetape-il or ,as thecase may 'be, is no more thanthat which ordinarily has been thrown awayas' waste material after ablock ot .gem duck has been trimmed to-flt an insole. This results inlessening the cost of manufacturing shoes without in any way impairtheir quali y.

Planting the toe portion o; the tape In the past considerable difllcultyhas been 'posed surface of thethintape extending beyond one edge name myin- -vention,whatIclaimasnewa nddesiretosecu@ 'by.hetters' Patent of theunited Btatais':

1. .As 'an article of commerce,-. a coil of insole ribbing comprising astrlp.'a thintape;

a'thicktapathetapesbeingstitchedtowa coating-ofcohesive-ccment appliedtoto the face of the thick tape, whe.r by the combined ribbing thus formedmaybe-wound ina coil without'placing cementcoat'edsurfacesincon v 2.Asan article or commercemr v d ribbing for ins'oles, comprising a corestrip, andtwo tapes,

-thetapesbeingsewntoopposiiesidesofthecore strip, one tapee'xtendingbeyond one edge of the core strip, the other tape being foldedback on the core strip. and accating of'cobesive cemeet applied to theexposedgface of the folded tape and to that surface of-the other tapewhich encountered in laying tape or gem duck around the inside'of thesewing rib on an insole because the sharp curves at the toe portion arelikely to cause ungainly bunchingof the tape in that area, as shown inFig; 4. This has been particularly troublesome when a heavy tape'or duckhas beenused. Asthetapeisbeinglaidalong-the relatively straight portionsof the sewing rio faces intho same direction as the coated'surface ofthe folded tap a. a sewing rib form in shoemaking, which comprises a;core strip. tapes coated on one surface with cohesive cement andstitched to the outer sides of the core below the center thereof withtheir cemented'sideg against the core strip. one of said tapes extending'below the edge of the core strip, the othertape being folded backagainst the .side of said strip. whereby one it is maintained-undertension whichhelps to lay the tape neatly and tightly along the insole.However, when it comes toturnlng the corner of the toe this tensionnecessarily lessens and the siackpermitsthetapetobulge.

. I have discovered that when m of the type illustratedin Figs. 5-10 isused, the inside tape about the tight pleats or the appearance of enoughandflatenoughtopresentnoobstacletotheemvedneedlelaterusedtounitethesewing ribandtheupper.ReferringagaintoFlg. 13, the am during its travel alon the path B -C toeis very neatl pleated in small, hicks which do not detract fromtheinsole'andwhicharesmall ff Y rib comprising has a slight forwardmovement before the tape is actinlly penetrated. In the straightportions of the rib, the awl slides slightly over the surface of thetensloned tape H, but when a corner isbeingturnedatthetoeandthetensiononthe tape slacks off, the awl does notslide over the tape but carries the tape along the-insole for a shortdistance before penetrating it. I have found that'the short, repeatedlabs of the awl from the neat, tight pleats described above and thatwhen the presser foot I: and the hammer come'dow'nuponthese pleats,theyare still furside 'of the article thus formed presents a cement coatingand the other side is free from-cement.

4. A coiled, prepared sewing ribbing for innersoles, which comprises acore strip, twotapes each I coated on one surface with cohesive cement,stitching uniting the core and the tapes, one of said tapes extendingbelow the edge of the strip and the other tape being folded back onsaidstrip, the cement coating on the tapesbeing exposed on only one surfaceof the ribbing thus formed, whereby the ribbing may-be coiled uponitself'without sticking the tuna together. j

5. An-in'sole comprising a blank'of insole material cut to proper shape,assewing rib cemented around the margin of the insole blank, the sewingan upright core strip, 5 thick tape havingaflange secured totheinsoleandanuliright portion covering the lower half of the inside of the corestrip, a thin tape having a flange secured to the insole and an uprightportion cov.

ering the lower half of the outside of the core securing the tapesstrip, and a/line of stitching tothe core strip. I I

B. A sewing'rlb for an insole, comprising upright cor strip, tapes sewnto the core strip and covering only thelower part thereof, and flangesformed by said tapes and sub stantlally at right angles to the corestrip '7. A process of-shoemaking which comprises providing a sewing ribhaving base flanges, progressively cementing the flanges of said rib tothe margin of the insole, and simultaneously further securing one baseflange to the innersole by pushing loops of adhesively coated threadthrough'the base flange and partially into the material of the innersoleat an acute angle, ap-

' plying pressure to each loop as it is formed and before the loopforming needle'is withdrawn.

8. A process of shoemaking, which comprises progressively cementing toan inners'ole a sewing rib having base flanges, and simultaneouslysecuringoneof'saidflangestotheinnersolebypushingloopsofthreadthmhtheflangeand aaaaaae obliquely into the body ofthe inner-sole. and beneath its suriace.

9. A process of reinforcing an insole which comprises laying a tapealong the outer surface of the insole and spaced from the edge thereof,5 sharp instrument to form small pleats, and proforming a hole extendingthrough the tape at gressively hammering the pleats flat. an acute angleand partially into the insole, in- 13. As an article of commerce, a coilof insole serting a loop of adhesive-coated thread in the ribbingcomprising a fibrous core of substantially hole, and applying pressureto collapse the sides rectangular cross section with a tape secured ofthe hole upon the thread. 1 in flat condition to one face and extending10. A process of stitching a tape to an insole beyond one edge of thecore, and a tape secured which comprises progressively laying the tapein folded condition to the other face and exupon the insole andsimultaneously forming a tending beyond the other edge of the core, saidseries of slanting awl holes extending through the tapes presentingadhesive coated faces in one tape and into the insole at an acute angle,de- 15 direction and uneoated faces in the, other positing loops ofthread in said holes, and collapsdirection. ing the sides of the holesupon the deposited loops. 14. A process of making insoles which consists11. A process of shoemaking which comprises in providing a strip 01sewing rib material having providing a sewing rib including a baseflange. attaching flanges respectively of unequal thickprogressivelylaying said rib upon an insole. ness, cohesively securing said flangesto the sursimultaneously forming a series of holes extending through thebase flange and into the insole at an acute angle. depositing loops ofthread 25 insole and at an acute angle beneath its surface.

in said holes, and pressing the sides upon the deposited loops orthread.

of the holes 12. A process of shoemaking which comprises laying areintorceing tape upon an insole and cohesively attaching it thereto ina step-by-step manner, simultaneously jabbing the tape with a face of aflat insole, and then stabbing loops of thread through the thicker ofthe flanges thus formed, the loops extending into the body of the-ANDREW R. RIDDERSTROM.

- mum: or CORRECTION.

Patent No. 2, 11,; ,22.

' February 29, 191 1;.

ANDREW R. RIDDERSTROH -It is hereby certified that error appears in theprinted specification 7 or the above numbered patent requiringcorrection as follows:

Page 1 second coltuun, line 1+1, after "having" insert --a full ppage'it, first column, line 60, for "fr-om read form--;

labl e and line 61;, beginning with the sylwords 'tion of the" strikeout all to and including the word and period described. in line 75,

and insert instead .the following where used to form the pleats and thatthe said Letters Patent should be read withthis correction therein thatthe some may conform to the record of the case in the Patent Office.

Signed and sealed this 16th day of m A. 1). 19th.

Leslie Fraz er (Seal) Acting Commissioner of Patents.

aaaaaae obliquely into the body of the inner-sole. and beneath itssuriace.

9. A process of reinforcing an insole which comprises laying a tapealong the outer surface of the insole and spaced from the edge thereof,5 sharp instrument to form small pleats, and proforming a hole extendingthrough the tape at gressively hammering the pleats flat. an acute angleand partially into the insole, in- 13. As an article of commerce, a coilof insole serting a loop of adhesive-coated thread in the ribbingcomprising a fibrous core of substantially hole, and applying pressureto collapse the sides rectangular cross section with a tape secured ofthe hole upon the thread. 1 in flat condition to one face and extending10. A process of stitching a tape to an insole beyond one edge of thecore, and a tape secured which comprises progressively laying the tapein folded condition to the other face and exupon the insole andsimultaneously forming a tending beyond the other edge of the core, saidseries of slanting awl holes extending through the tapes presentingadhesive coated faces in one tape and into the insole at an acute angle,de- 15 direction and uneoated faces in the, other positing loops ofthread in said holes, and collapsdirection. ing the sides of the holesupon the deposited loops. 14. A process of making insoles which consists11. A process of shoemaking which comprises in providing a strip 01sewing rib material having providing a sewing rib including a baseflange. attaching flanges respectively of unequal thickprogressivelylaying said rib upon an insole. ness, cohesively securing said flangesto the sursimultaneously forming a series of holes extending through thebase flange and into the insole at an acute angle. depositing loops ofthread 25 insole and at an acute angle beneath its surface.

in said holes, and pressing the sides upon the deposited loops orthread.

of the holes 12. A process of shoemaking which comprises laying areintorceing tape upon an insole and cohesively attaching it thereto ina step-by-step manner, simultaneously jabbing the tape with a face of aflat insole, and then stabbing loops of thread through the thicker ofthe flanges thus formed, the loops extending into the body of the-ANDREW R. RIDDERSTROM.

- mum: or CORRECTION.

Patent No. 2, 11,; ,22.

' February 29, 191 1;.

ANDREW R. RIDDERSTROH -It is hereby certified that error appears in theprinted specification 7 or the above numbered patent requiringcorrection as follows:

Page 1 second coltuun, line 1+1, after "having" insert --a full ppage'it, first column, line 60, for "fr-om read form--;

labl e and line 61;, beginning with the sylwords 'tion of the" strikeout all to and including the word and period described. in line 75,

and insert instead .the following where used to form the pleats and thatthe said Letters Patent should be read withthis correction therein thatthe some may conform to the record of the case in the Patent Office.

Signed and sealed this 16th day of m A. 1). 19th.

Leslie Fraz er (Seal) Acting Commissioner of Patents.

